Photo of a traditional bustle on an A-line dress: kristinpetruzzello

A bustle lets you easily lift the train of your dress after the ceremony, freeing you to move around and dance without risking a misstep.

But with multiple styles to choose from, selecting the right one can be daunting. Each bustle option offers unique benefits, depending on your gown’s silhouette, train length, and personal preference.

Here’s a breakdown of the three most common bustle styles to help you find the perfect one for your big day.

French Bustle

A French bustle is when fabric from the lower portion of the train is tucked up under the skirt/lining. This creates a folded line across the middle of the skirt that should taper towards the side seams.

Pros

• Sturdy
• Helps distribute weight of the train so it doesn’t feel heavy
• Can help keep the body-con shape of more fitted dresses

Cons

• The fold can be fluffy or bulky
• Not a great choice for really long trains or more petite wearers

American, Traditional, or Over Bustle

An American bustle takes the fabric of the lower part of the train and brings it over the outside of the rest of the skirt, typically attaching with hooks or buttons on the waist of the dress.

Pros

• Great for keeping the shape of an A-line or ballroom silhouette
• Creates visual drama on a flared silhouette

Cons

• Can be heavy and more delicate or prone to breaking versus other styles

Ballroom or Under Bustle

The ballroom bustle is when material from the lower part of the train is brought up inside the skirt/lining creating an even line with the floor.

Pros

• Sturdy like the French style
• Ideal if you don’t like the “look” of an obvious bustle
• Great for cleaner style gowns

Cons

• Can require more points than other bustle styles
• Causes wear-and-tear/dirt on the mid-train of the dress, which can be harder to amend during the cleaning process

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Hi, I’m Melissa, the sassy sewing and wedding pro you didn’t know you needed in your life. 

I’m the owner of deMelis Atelier, a top ranked alterations studio located in Connecticut, and the founder of Stitched Collective, a community for sewing professionals. I’m a master seamstress and wedding dress educator as well as an industry leader and trainer… and a lover of spicy mango margaritas.

I use my fashion and sewing knowledge to help brides and wedding pros alike. 

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